The 5th time I've been to Paris!
Week 5:
Day 1
This morning I went to the flea market, Marche aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves. When I got off the metro, I didn't exactly know which way to go, but a very nice gentleman pointed me to the Marche. This was quite a fun morning. I had heard there would be a lot of musical instruments, but I didn't see but 1 drum and 2 bugles. I still had a great time wandering for an hour and a half through the market.
I decided to get a few small, jewelry box size skeleton keys. I also found a pocket slide rule with French instructions. For those that don't know what a slide rule is, it is a pre electronics calculator, but not as ancient as an abacus.
As I was heading back to the Metro, I stopped by a bus stop and looked at the route, which went to Opera, so I decided to take the bus.
The bus went right through St Germain des Pres. I exited at Les Deux Magots, which was packed with people and went to take some pictures of some sculptures, but found I didn't have either camera. Hopefully I left the little one at the apartment...
I caught the next bus, and got off near Opera and walked over to the apartment. I picked up my camera and thought I'd go try to find the Chocolate Barge to have lunch and get some chocolate.
I took the Metro to Quai de la Gare and walked down along the river. There is a quite a wide concrete park and a group of boats that are cafes or bars. I found the boat that was supposed to be next to the Barge. But, I could not find the barge. Oh, well, disappointing, but onward.
I decided to go back to St Germain des Pres, Les Deux Magots was still crowded so I went to Cafe de Flores for lunch. Now, lunch was pretty expensive here, but I stayed just for the experience. I had a club sandwich (18 Euro) and a 7 Euro glass of wine. The food was good. I was inside, but I could see people walking by, waiters going in and out and around, it was quite entertaining as well. I wanted mustard on my sandwich, and they gave me my own mini jar of mustard, which I finished up at the apartment.
After lunch I wandered through the area and into the Latin Quarter just looking at people and sights enjoying the weather and the architecture. You never know what will be around the next corner, so I enjoy wandering and taking it all in. Being a Parisian for another week.
For dinner I opened the raspberry jam and had bread and jam since I wasn't really hungry after my big lunch.
This has been the best weather day, so I thought I should head down to the Eiffel Tower and try to get some pictures of it light up and "sparkling".
There were thousands of people partying in the Champs de Mars, but I was able to walk down past them and closer to the Tower. The main lights came on at 9, but the "sparkling" didn't start until 10. It was a sight worth seeing!
I really do not like to be out alone at night. So as soon as possible, I went right back to the apartment.
Today I was at one of the RER stations and I was able to get my Forfait Loisirs for Fontainebleau on Monday.
Day 2
The Musee Carnavalet is free on Sunday morning, so I arrived at 10 am when it opened. This museum is devoted to the history of Paris up to 1789. I was surprised how much I enjoyed this museum. There were many shop signs, which was my most favorite.
The rest of the museum has paintings, drawings, plans, decorations, scale models and other items from early Paris.
There is a collection of photographs, but you have to call and make an appointment to come in and see them, so I was unable to see them.
I went to the market on Rue de Lepic in Montmartre. I found a real nice sized bottle of Raspberry Liquor and bought a bottle of Bougelais. I grabbed a sandwich and ate as I walked through the different streets and up the hill.
I went to The Dali Museum. I love his melting clocks. This museum is not large, but has some really great pieces. I hope to see the museum he built in Figueres, Spain in November.
I strolled through Place du Tetre, which was very crowded with tourists and artists, and wandered over to Sacre Coeur.
I found a light blue little rosary in Sacre Coeur. Then walked down the steps to the bottom of the hill and found a tee shirt and sweatshirt.
I returned to the apartment to drop off all my purchases and decided to go in search of a beer, since it is such a nice day to sit outside. I wandered down Rue de Italians and found a Brasserie that served Bruge Blonde, a Belgium white beer, which is my favorite. It was a refreshing break.
I went back to the apartment to relax for the rest of the evening, tomorrow would be a busy day.
Day 3
Today I more easily caught the RER D for the Chateau Fontainebleau, remembering the lessons I had learned last week about finding the right Voir. The train left from a side track at Gare de Lyon. At the Gare you will find the main tracks for TGV and long distance trains, according to the train schedule the track I wanted was off to the side. I didn't know which side, so first I checked the right, the I found the right track on the left and was able to catch the train to Montereau that was leaving in 10 minutes. I got off the train at Fontainebleau Avon about 35 minutes later.
I caught bus A that took us through the town of Fontainbleau and dropped us off near the chateau. All this information is in the Forfait Loisirs, including a free booklet on the chateau that you can pick up in the Tourist Office. This book is a great bonus. It contains lots of pictures, dates, facts and figures about Fontainebleu.
On the train out it was raining really hard, now there is just a drizzle. So I entered the chatuea.
Again, my Forfait Loisirs gives me access to everything that is open. The chateau is very nice and I enjoyed walking through with my head set seeing everything possible. The Throne Room (one of a few left in France) and the Chapel were my favorite rooms.
After seeing every possible space inside, I went out to the rear courtyard and gardens. There is a whole wing that is under restoration and the Diana Garden is closed, or I couldn't find access.
The weather had improved some, so when I felt I had seen everything I went to a nearby bus stop and found that I would have to wait 45 minutes because it was lunch time. So I decided to walk through the town towards the train station. You never know what you might discover. It is a nice town, but I didn't see anything to halt my walk and within about 30 minutes I was back at the train station. I had misread the schedule, so ended up waiting an additional hour to catch a train back to Paris.
Upon my return to Gare de Lyon, I decided to visit the Galignani bookstore on Rue de Rivoli that has English books, and pick up a new novel to read the rest of the week. I found a paperback by one of my favorite authors, Dick Francis!
And, since Angelina's was so close, I decided to treat myself to there very delicious African hot chocolate! I had stopped here 3 years ago and it was fantastic, and I thoroughly enjoyed it again this time.
From Angelina's, I walked towards Opera Garnier, I hadn't taken Sam's advice and bought a 10 Euro ticket, so I thought I would check it out.
You are actually able to go inside, but rehearsals were in progress, so you could not go farther then the lobby. They have tours inside for 8 Euro, but since I could get a restricted view seat for 10 Euro, I thought I would do that.
It was 6 and the ticket said the show, a ballet actually, started at 7:30, so I had time to walk back to the apartment, and spruce up a bit and have some dinner, and return by about 7, since my apartment is 10 minutes away.
I was allowed in, upon my return, so I had a chance to look at the lobby, see the split staircases up to the different levels, lots of marble and a painted ceiling. And then I was shown to my little loge. It is only about 6 feet wide and 15 feet deep. There is a coat rack and 6 chairs, in 3 rows. Since I was the first one there, I was able to get down to the front row long enough to see the main floor, balcony and all the loges across the way. Wow, I'm on the 3rd level above the main floor, I will actually only be able to see about 1/3rd of the stage. That is okay, but next time I would spend more money to get a better view. The place is amazing, lots of red and gold. I really like the painted ceiling.
I saw two modern ballet pieces! There was a 1/2 hour break between. Though I couldn't see all of it, I stood up for part of it and could see more. I just can't stand for a long time. The music was great, and I just enjoyed the experience tremendously. I would do it again.
When I got back to my apartment, I used the apartment phone to make a free call to my sister. We talked about an hour, and I was able to tell her some information about the area around the apartment they are renting in June. I found the apartment, a boulangerie, a Monoprix and a market street.
Day 4
When the bank opened at 10, as in the USA, I went to the teller window and asked to for some change for 3 100 Euro bills. I was told that the bank doesn't make change, and to go to the Poste. So I went across the street to the Poste and asked for change, the Poste man didn't look too happy, but gave me change.
I walked to my usual market at Montorgueil, to get my staples, bread, cheese and chocolate croissants.
Sightseeing today consisted of trying to find some photo galleries. I found one, but I couldn't find 3 others. The work was okay, but not my favorite.
I went to the Astronomy store I have been to before on Rue de Rivoli near the St Paul Metro and bought a compass. There with this little planetarium that I was very interested in, but not sure I wanted to spend that much, so I decided to think about it for a while.
I walked down to St Paul's and went inside. Then walked over to the Hotel Sully which had a photo show on postcards which was quite interesting. At first postcards started as just scenes and landscapes, but after a while fantasy came into play. Some of the old postcards were pretty creative.
When I left the photo show, it was pouring. I went back and bought the planetarium and then returned to my apartment. I pant legs got soaking wet.
I started a load of laundry and decided to eat dinner out tonight since I've only been out once. I wanted to go to Le Vaudville but they don't serve dinner until 19:00 (7 PM), and I was too hungry to wait that long. So I decided to go back to A Pied de Couchon. I had their French Onion soup, which is excellent; steak and frites (fries), and strawberry/vanilla ice cream. It is still very windy and there is some rain, so I returned to the apartment.
Day 5
Today is another windy and rainy day, so I am not very motivated to go out. Around 10 the weather was a little better, so I walked over to Ste Marie Madeline, and it really started pouring. So I took shelter for a little while. Then I went to Fouchon and bought some chocolates, I looked around at some of the other gourmet treats, but didn't buy anything else. Then I walked up to Printemps and Galleries Lafayette and found a cap. I returned to my apartment for lunch.
The weather was steadily improving, so I went to the annual Contemporary Art Fair near Place de la Bastille. It was great! I looked mainly at the sculptures. I found one woman,
Anne Rygaloff
who made these pieces of people dancing and they were fantastic. I could have sat and looked at her work for hours. She had one of a couple waltzing that reminded me of Camille Claude's Waltz. I went back to look at here work three times, I liked it so much. I could feel the music when I looked at her work. I got to speak with her for a few moments and tell her how much I loved it. I really wanted the Waltz piece but don't really have room for it, or feel I can spend the money on it at this time.
There is wind, rain, thunder and lightening but most of the show was under cover or in tents, so it wasn't too bad. The nice thing too was, there weren't very many people, so I could move freely and see everything easily and at my own pace.
When I had seen all I wanted, I decided to take the bus, which would take me within 1/2 mile of the apartment. I have really enjoyed riding the bus on this trip, while not necessarily as fast as the metro, I have seen things I would not have seen otherwise.
Day 6
Today is May 1st, Labor Day in France. Most business will be closed, so I planned to visit to Buttes Chaumont. My Eyewitness Guide had a 90 minute walk, so I decided to do most of it.
Buttes Chaumont is a very interesting park, with a very high point with amazing views of Sacre Coeur. There is also a lake, a man-made waterfall inside a grotto, a suspension bridge and nice walking paths.
Sacre Coeur looks grey without the sun on it, but as soon as the sun hits it, it turns a brilliant white.
At the southwest corner of the park, you can walk up the steps to Butte Bergeyre where there is some interesting architecture, and some other views of the city.
I went to see Arenes de Lutece when I left Butte Chaumont. The Roman Arenes date from the 2nd century.
Again, being near Ile St Louis, I headed for Berthillon for my favorite chocolate and raspberry combination of sorbet.
On my way back toward the apartment, I walked through Montorgueil market and stopped at my favorite shop for cheese Le Fermette, and also bought bread and croissants since they were open, too.
After lunch and a rest, I went to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais area. Walking around the Grand Palais, I also saw the exterior of the Palais Decouverte. I did not go inside, I don't actually think anything was open. I did enjoy the architecture, paintings and statuary adorning the building.
I revisited Place de l'Alma, where there has been a replica of the flame for the Statue of Liberty and also a memorial to Britain's Princess Diana who was killed in the tunnel below. There were flowers, and many people have written messages along the stone wall of the bridge in memory of her.
I walked from there up to Square Brignole Galleria to see the architecture and also crossed the street to see the architecture and view from the Palais de Tokyo.
Heading back to the apartment, I walked by the British and American Embassies. There were guards everywhere at both Embassies, and I was told not to take pictures of the American Embassy.
I walked by the Hotel de Crillon a palace hotel built by Louis XV, and which my sister has told me is where Tour de France riders stay at the end of the Tour. This brought me to Place de la Concorde and the Jardin des Tuileries.
Tuileries is one of my favorite Gardens, I like the sculptures in particular. If you walk from west to east, you will end at the Louvre.
From there I walked towards Opera and Rue de Italians and stopped for a Belgium white beer or Bruges Blonde.
After dinner, I did a practice pack. I don't think I'm going to make it, so will have to get rid of some of the tee shirts that I brought that I have no attachment to, so I can fit in my purchases. This is where I keep having packing problems, I still bring a little more then I ever wear, and then have to leave several shirts behind. This is the 3rd time, so hopefully I have learned my lesson. Time will tell.
Day 7
Well, it is my last full day. It is hard to believe in a way, but I feel like I did a great job of sightseeing. I got a good rest, read 4-1/2 books, and really relaxed. I think I'm actually ready to head home, but I have today.
Originally I didn't plan to do anything today, but the weather was so nice, I spent a little time looking at my guide book and maps and decided to head to Chateau de Vincennes. This accomplished another Metro ride to the end of the line.
The chateau was once a royal residence until Versailles was completed. Napoleon converted it to an arsenal. I really enjoyed walking around and looking at the architecture.
I thought about walking around Bois de Vincennes, but decided not to go there. The Parc Floral de Paris is also nearby.
I again chose the bus for the return to town, so I had views of the Bois de Vincennes as we passed by. I switched to another bus that dropped me at Pont de Sully on Ile St Louis.
One more trip to Berthillon. I just can't resist such good sorbet.
I decided to visit the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie and see the current show. I liked one of the artists, but not the other.
I went to the apartment and packed again. I chose what to leave behind and laid out the clothes for tomorrow.
I went for one more Bruges Blonde and then came back for dinner and a relaxing evening. I'm prepared for my early morning departure. I will get up about 5:30, take the Metro to Opera and catch the Roissybus from Rue Scribe to Charles de Gaulle airport for the trip home.
Go to Travel Journal Page for more Journals
Return to Top of Page


|