The Month Began with a Week in Brittany - The Lintivic Journal

My short visit to Brittany a little over a year ago, was what got me started planning this trip. I have an obsession with stone. Carved, naturally formed, standing, avenues, statues, buildings, and my own collections of polished stones. I don't know why, but I do know I like it!

I found a house to rent in the hamlet of Lintivic, in Morbihan, Brittany. I chose this house because of its central location, the owners speak English, and there was a washing machine and TV.

Brittany is filled with ancient stone sites. They are elsewhere in France as well, but many of the ancient stone sites are here.

Click here to visit the Ancient Stone Photo Gallery

I have several books of ancient stone sites, and have located some sites on maps, so my month in France begins with a couple of days in Paris, then Brittany and the quest for ancient stone.

First 2 days in Paris

Day 1 - Arrival in Paris

A woman on the plane today, lit up a cigarette after dinner, I was so shocked! This had to be someone who has never flown before. How long has it been since you can smoke on a plane? 1980's? It was crazy!

The sunrise was pretty, and I got to see the south end of Ireland and England as we flew towards Paris. I'm getting really excited, I'm going to be in France a month! We landed at 11:30 and had to walk down stairs to the tarmac and catch a bus to customs. Customs was hard to find. We did see any signs. Someone up front knew where they were going, so we all just followed.

I asked a policeman where the Gare (train station) was and was able to follow his directions and the signs.

I tried to get a ticket from the machine with my credit card, but it wouldn't work. Then the change machine took 2 Euro, so I would not have enough change from my 10 Euro to get a ticket, so I had to stand in a very long line to buy a ticket to take the train to Gare du Nord.

The train ride was nice. At Gare du Nord, I bought a carnet of 10 Metro tickets. If I don't use them all they will last and even be good a year from now!

After a couple of metro changes, and a short walk, I found my hotel. I have a nice room that faces the street and have a tiny balcony. I'm staying at the Best Western on Boulevard de la tour Maubourg. It is pretty humid, so I took a quick shower and changed after my flights and train/metro trips.

I walked north to the Seine and then along the river to the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero. There was a new African Museum that has opened recently, I did not go in side, but walked through the garden outside. The Trocadero offered new views of the Eiffel Tower and surrounding area.

I walked over to the Tower and through the Champ de Mars (the park to the east of the Eiffel Tower) and ended up on Rue Cler. I'm not real hungry, but I found some pears. I have never tasted pears as good as the ones I've had here in France.

I need to charge my phone, which is dead for some reason, and call my sister to let her know I have arrived safely.

By 7 pm (1900) I can't keep my eyes open. I slept like a rock until 10 (2200), then was awake for a little, and then back to sleep.

I spent my first night in a hotel in Paris. I'd taken the train from the airport to Gare du Nord, then the Metro to a 1/2 block from my hotel.

Day 2 - Paris

I woke at 3, 6 and finally at 9:30 I got up. Wow, lots of sleep, but feel pretty good now.

I went to take the metro, but the train I got on was not running. Then I got on another train, but it was broken down. So I headed up to the streets and a different metro stop.

I found the Maillol Museum. There are lots of good sculptures. Some of the same pieces are in the Tuileries Garden. I came here for the Kandinsky's. But there is only one that I really like.

There was a great photography show in tribute to Marilyn Monroe featuring the photos from a 1962 layout.

I left there and walked to Saint Sulpice. There was a Thai festival in Place St Sulpice that I wondered through. Then I entered the church to see the famous Rose Line. I bought a book about the Rose Line. I found out that it is actually a sundial.

I found the Metro and went to Centre Pompidou, but the Kandinsky Wing is closed until September 25th. I did see 1 Kandinsky and 3 Jackson Pollock's', 2 that I really like.

There was a photo and video exhibition, so I wandered through that. It was good.

They have free wi-fi, so I tried to use my little PDA, but it kept timing out. I gave up and got a sandwich and headed for my hotel. I stopped in a cafe and had a glass of wine.

I arranged for a taxi for the morning, a wake up call. I used their internet for about 1/2 and hour and got some emails out. The keyboard is arranged it a little differently, so it took me some time, and a bunch of corrections.

I took another walk around the Hotel des Invalides and back to the Champs de Mars to see the Eiffel Tower lit up. I did not see the twinkling lights.

I walked back to the hotel by 9:30, and in bed by 10:30, but can't sleep. I'm either too nervous or excited about tomorrow, or I slept way too long last night.

A Week in Brittany

Day 1 - Lintivic, Morbihan

I have arranged for a taxi to take me to Gare Montparnasse to catch the TGV train for about a 3 hour trip to Vannes where I will pick up my car.

We arrive in Vannes around 11 and by 11:30 I have my car.

Mick and Jo the owners of the house had provide me with maps, plus I had brought several maps and a books to help me navigate the month.

The house was only 30 km or so from Vannes, so I had the opportunity to take my time getting there. I used the time to get used to driving the car, and navigating my way through the French countryside.

It is exciting and frightening to know that I am here for a month, driving all over the country, speaking very little French (though I have studied for a year on my own, and have a phrase book) and I am alone!!! I have purchased a world phone so I can check in with family now and again.

I drive by Lintivic and decide to head for Baud and the store to pick up some supplies to get me through tomorrow (Sunday) when everything will be closed. I find the Intermarche, top of the gas tank and get some groceries before returning to meet the owners at the house.

I found Lintivic again all right, but couldn't find the house. I very nice neighbor lady helped me out. I received a warm welcome from Jo (who speaks more English then French they are from Great Britain) and got a tour of the house and lessons in operation of the appliances. Outside I meet Mick and their children and dog. The house is what we would call a duplex, with separately fenced back yards.

Mick and Jo have provided a red and white wine, milk, a baguette, butter, mineral water and some assorted Breton cookies. There was also a postcard and pen for me. This is quite a treat! In other houses there has been only a bottle of wine.

I am left to settle in. It has been quite a long day, and the excitement of starting this adventure is catching up to me. By 5 I'm in my PJ's and having some wine and cheese for dinner. The 2005 Chateau Larkin Bordeaux is excellent and I have found a wonderful Saint Nectaire cheese!

There is a great selection of books and movies if I need some additional entertainment, but for tonight, I'm in bed by 8.

Day 2 –

I have an interesting habit of waking at 3 am. I may even be awake for a couple hours before drifting back to sleep until 8 or so.

I won't drive too far today, the gas stations will be closed. I have had a problem with using any US bank or credit card in the gas pumps, so I won't count on that. I'll have to buy gas when there is an attendant in the booth.

I headed for Camors first looking for and finding the Cornevec Alignments. These are pretty cool!

I drove around searching for a few more sights, but no luck. Then found the middle row at least of the Grand-Resto Kersloan Alignments. The quest continued without success, and I drove through Belz 5 times before I found 2 dolmens.

As I walked back to my car, a man that was walking his dog, spoke to me in French asking me a question and pointing at the dolmens. I replied j'ai parle un peu Francais. (I only speak a little French). This set off a dialogue of gestures and words with his little English and my little French.

Note: This is was one of the most important phrases other than please and thank you, that I knew. J'ai parle un peu Francais. (I only speak a little French). It was helpful to be able to understand some words and speak a few words, and keep learning as I traveled.

Basically, the conversation was about this huge dolmen (passage grave) in Esse that he had gone to see. He had counted 43 stones there. He said at midnight eerie and bizarre things happen that give you the chills! He said I should try to go there and see it.

We "talked" for about 15 minutes, it was great fun, and he was a very nice gentleman.

I drove to Plouhinic and Etel, but couldn't find the stones and then went to a favorite site from my last visit, Erdeven. Here you can walk among the stones! I also found an area called the Geants, which was full of huge stones, many that had toppled over.

I drove to Saint Pierre Quiberon and saw the Alignments and Cromlech du Saint Pierre.

I could not resist stopping to see the avenues of Carnac at Le Menec again. This time there were people walking amongst the stones. I thought I might have gotten real lucky and the gates were open to everyone, but it was a special group only. I did however go to a viewing area on the roof of the museum and get a little bit different view over the avenues. I'm still amazed at the number of stones and lengths of rows.

By the time I get back to the house it after six. I'm really tired, but I got to see a lot of stones today, new and old sites. I still enjoy walking amongst the stones in Erdeven the most for some reason.

Day 3 -

I was up and out of the house by 8:30, and drove the back roads towards Josselin and then Ploermel, but I could not find the astronomical clock, so I continued on.

I headed for Medreac and the Megaliths at Lampouy and the Megalith Pierre Longue

My book "Megalithic Brittany" by Aubrey Burl, tells me that the Lampouy rows are the most important rows in Brittany after those at Carnac. I guess it is because "their disposition is unlike any other in Brittany". Many stones have fallen over, and there are bushes and fences between the rows, so it is hard to see their relationship to each other. They are not in avenues like at Le Menec, Carnac.

My next stop was Combourg. I wanted to see the chateau, which is really great looking, but it is closed for lunch time. So I made my way to my primary destination for the day, the Menhir Du Champ Dolent.

Wow! It is so tall! Over 30 feet tall (9.5 meters). It is one of the largest (tallest) standing menhirs in Brittany.

After leaving there I got going towards the Foret de Fougeres where there are two symbols for prehistoric monuments on the map, and I have finally gotten some gas. I went around the long way and back through the forest. I found the Condon de Druids, a row of quartz stones and spent some time walking down the row. There are 23 large stones.

I really like avenues and rows more than any site of seen. There are not any circles that I have found yet, so the only circles I have seen are Stonehenge and the intersecting circles at Avebury Circle, both of which are on the Salisbury Plains of England.

I believe all the sites have an astronomical significance. Being a fan of stone and astronomy, myself, I can't help but be fascinated by thoughts that combine to of my favorite things to observe and investigate.

It is getting late, so I'm going to have to skip some of the places I'd hoped to see. I will not make it to Vitre, and I did not make it to St Malo this morning, either. I've decided I'm going to have to pick what is really important and a "must see" and make sure I plan a little better. I did plan a pretty aggressive trip, but, as I learned before better to have a plan to throw out, then not know what to do. (At least this is how I like to travel.)

My GPS is not working like I wanted it to. For one thing, some of the stone sights are coordinates and I can't input coordinates as a destination. I can only try to find a city or attraction near by. So that isn't working at all.

I'm having trouble finding sights unless they are on the map, sign posted, or I just happen to see the stones when I am driving around. I'm unhappy about this and somewhat frustrated, but then I just, move on. After all, I have a month in France and plenty so see and do, and I'm going to make the best of it all, and be happy with what ever I discover and see!

Off I go back towards Lintivic, I still have some stops on my route home. The first stop was Esse and La Roche aux Fees. This is the largest passage grave I have ever seen. The top stones are huge! I can't believe this site is over 3000 years old and they were able to move and place these stones.

After some of the sites I've seen, I should no longer be surprised, but I am. Sometimes I just have to stop and say WOW!

I won't be here at midnight and experience the creepiness like the man said, but he was right when he said it is a site to see.

I got home a little outside my comfort zone today, it is 7:45. It's not dark, but close, and too long a day for me, I am really beat.

Day 4 -

I packed a little picnic of bread, cheese and some cookies, and have a chocolate croissant for breakfast. This is my favorite thing for breakfast. I try to have one every day when I am in France.

Today I am very excited to be heading towards Landerneau, which has a bridge that has buildings on it!

I had a hard time trying to figure out how to get on the N24, so I am driving backroads (not dirt, but smaller paved 2 lane roads). This is slower, but very scenic.

I notice that the houses hear have a unique style. They are rectangular and 2 story stone houses with a chimney at each end of the slate roof. This is different then I have seen anywhere else.

The countryside is green with low rolling hills. Driving is wonderful and there is very little traffic. There are occasional round-a-bouts and small villages. The villages fascinate me.

Picture the days before cars, when a horse and buggy followed the road through the village. People built houses along the road. The houses didn't move, and there wasn't usually enough traffic for 2 lanes of horses and buggies, so 1 lane minimum, and sometimes it feels like less. In my little economy car I have felt like I only had an inch on each side to spare. This can be a little scary at times. But also it is fantastic to think how long this house or this road has been here!

After an hour of driving I hit the N165 and can really start cruising. A little more then an hour later I am in Landerneau.

This place is really great. I found a place to park just beyond the Pont de Rohan (the bridge with buildings). and was able to walk along the the east side of the river to the Pont. There was a Tourist Information Office, a Pharmacy, a Bar and some other shops on the bridge. I walked across and then continued west on the other side of the bridge.

I really like this town. I keep having this feeling that my sister would love it here.

I cross a bridge and find this replica about 1/10th scale of the Pont sitting in the shallows...interesting... Then I found a small market on one of the side street and bought some cheese and strawberries. The strawberries were wonderful!

(I know a good strawberry, too. My summers during high school were spent in the berry fields of Puyallup, Washington. I picked and sold raspberries and strawberries for a local grower. Well I might have eaten a few, too!!!!!)

Well, anyway, I know strawberries, and these were great! So fresh and delicious and quite an unexpected treat!

From Landerneau I headed to the Abbaye at Daoulas. There was a museum that I visited that was in a modern building. They were having a show that included an Asian Mask display. Quite interesting. I also walked the grounds and found a medicinal herb garden. The various types of herbs were labeled with their use! Cool!

I drove on to Landevennec, where there are the remains of a 5th century abbaye. There is a great museum that tells the history of the abbaye and its restoration.

From there I had a beautiful drive to the Crozon peninsula and made my way to the coastal town of Camaret-sur-Mer. I was looking for another set of stone rows, but found myself on a little tour. What luck for me because I found this great point called Pointe de Penhir. We were high on a bluff above the Atlantic Ocean. The sun was shining the water was very blue. Beautiful!!!

After that, I accidentally found the stones of Lagatjar. A very different formation. There were two rows and then a perpendicular row, or you could describe it as one long row with 2 parallel arms. There are also 3 separate stones in a little cluster off to one side.

This has been an amazing day. I have really enjoyed all the things I've seen. The weather has been fantastic. I have seen a lot, but I'm not that tired, probably because I am enjoying myself so much. I've really gotten in the vacation mood. I think, too, that it has helped that I didn't spend a lot of time today driving around in search of stones and not finding them. It has made for a more relaxing day.

On my way back to the house I wanted to get some groceries. I stopped at a Lidel market, and then I remembered stopping at one before with my sister. They are like a mini Costco (USA store). Everything is in bulk. Even with a little over 3 weeks to go, this does not suit me.

I found an Electic store, it is like a Fred Meyer with food in the USA. I found a few things that I needed.

I continued on, I must have missed the turn again, and ended up on the back roads. It took me an hour to get to Quimper. Then I was able to get on the highway and took exit 39 which put me on the N24. I saw what looked like 2 separate menhirs off the side of the highway.

I got to the house about 7. I had a melted cheese and tomato sandwich, it was delicious!

I spoke briefly to Jo to let her know I was enjoying my stay at the house and that all was going well.

Day 5 -

After such a great day yesterday, I was surprised my night was plagued with nightmares and bizarre dreams, yuk!

I have been to Ploermel a couple of times trying to find the astronomical clock, but no luck. I thought I'd give it one more try today. Again, no luck. I did stop to see these stones at the side of the road. They looked like an ancient site, but I think they were decorative. There was also what looked like a knight's helmet and a sword. They were 10 times normal size. A nice park, though.

I drove on to St Just, I saw a passage grave, Rocher de Treal. I walked up a trail and found it on top of the hill.

I had read that there were quite a few sites here. I found a park with a map that indicated that there were 6 sites here. Very exciting! I followed the path and found the first one. From there you could look off in the distance and see some of the others. It was approximately 3 or so miles round trip. Again, the weather was great, so I decided to keep going. I had such a nice walk! The sites have been fixed up, and some were fenced to protect them.

While walking through the park, I happened to look down on there was a coin from Romania! This was really interesting, because my mother's family is from Romania!

I next went to Langon to see a sight called Les Demoiselles.

I've worn myself out, so I decide to head back towards the house. I looked for a couple of other sites, but couldn't find them, so I decided to stop at the Josselin Chateau. A tour of the Chateau was just beginning, it was in French, but that was all right. Mainly, I just wanted to see inside!

I was really glad I did. The family still lives in the chateau, and only part of it is open to visitors. No photographs were allowed inside. But, the highlight of the tour, for me, had to be a world globe that showed only the 13 colonies! That was something!

French Chateau Photo Gallery

I did understand some of the words, so my studies of French over the previous year have taught me something. I am very shy when speaking, because I know my accent is terrible. People have been very nice to me, and many do speak a little English.

Back at the house, I had an early evening. The house has a DVD player and movies, so tonight was an evening of movies!

Day 6 -

After much dilemma last night, I decided to head toward Pontivy and St Brieuc. It is very windy this morning.

The first stone sight I visited was Le Quillo. It was called a passage grave in my book, but the website said it was an alignment. It doesn't look like a passage grave. There is a church here Notre Dame de Lorette. The stones are smaller partially buried stones to the right of the church as well.

From there I drove to Plemy. I drove around and found a sign for the stone sight, but when I found what I think was the sight; you have to walk through a stable yard to get to them. I did not want to go through private property, so I looked at them from the car. I couldn't find a place to park, either.

I headed for Quinten, I could not find the stone sight there, either, but there was a park at a lake, so I took a walk along the lake and stretch my legs for a while.

I drove through St Brieuc and caught a glimpse of the water, but decided not to go down to the shore.

I'm quite tired today, and the wind is blowing the car pretty good, so it is harder to drive. I headed towards Begard via Quingamp and found the menhir at Begard. It is a nice stone!

I left there for Treguir, and realized that the sight may be totally bare, per my book. Since I was tired anyway, I decided I was ready to head back to the house. I drove the D767 through a forest, there were some limbs, a ton of leaves and one tree down on the road, but nothing blocking.

When I got to Baud, I decided to stop at a patisserie for a treat. I found a parking spot and walked around the town. It is pretty windy here, too. My eyes are starting to itch with all the stuff in the air. But, I found some fruit tarts.

I arrived at the house at about 4:30 or so, so I started laundry, and performed my nightly ritual of updating my maps and journal.

Tomorrow is going to be a very easy day, I'm worn out.

Jo came by and invited me over. I spent a little time visiting and found out they had moved here about 2 years before. They had just about given up finding a place that would work for a rental, when they found this house. Originally they lived in my side until their side was renovated. Then they moved and started renting my side.

It is really a great property out in the country. The closest services are 1 kilometer away. There are just farms surrounding the house. The location was perfect for me, because in 2 or 3 hours or less I could be anywhere in Brittany.

Day 7 –

I woke at 7:30, but lay in bed until 8. Today will be a very easy day, and my last full day here. I will be getting up and leaving early in the morning for my drive to Chisseaux and the house 2 kilometers from the Chateau Chenonceau, my favorite chateau!

Jo had told me that Camors was a nice little town, so I headed there around 10. It didn't catch my interest, though. So I drove on.

I drove into Saint Anne de Auray, which has a large church and park like grounds around the church. There was also a large war memorial, dedicated to the 250,000 dead from World War I.

I walked around the village. I want crepes for lunch today, but then decided not to wait for an hour for a shop to open.

I went to Auray. There was a market there today, so I had a hard time finding parking. Then once I found a place to park, I couldn't find the market! I was a little concerned that if I wandered in too many directions, I wouldn't find the car again.

I did walk down the hill to the water. The streets were cobblestone, and there was an old sailing ship at the bottom of the hill. I think I've found the old part of town! I wandered around looking in the shop windows. Although it looks like it could rain at any minute, I'm have a nice time sightseeing. I have seen a couple of restaurants that sell crepes, so I know I will have them for lunch! Yum!

I finally decide on a restaurant with a view of the sailing ship and have a banana and chocolate crepe! Wow was it good!

Then I walked back up the hill and found my car and headed down to the ocean. I ended up in Locmariaquer, at the western tip of the Gulf du Morbihan. As I was driving along the shore, I found a great passage grave and pulled in to park. Right when I stopped the car, the wind came up and it started sleeting! I just sat tight, because I could see plenty of blue sky. I think it had stopped within 15 minutes.

I walked all around Pierres Plats passage grave. It is more L shaped, or boomerang shaped. Everything was dripping, and there was a big puddle just inside the entrance, not that I would go in, anyway. But I took a look inside and there on the stone to the left, was this pattern. It reminds me of a butterfly, but they call the bumps, nipples, in the books. This was so amazing!!!!

I am seriously Wowed! This is fantastic!

I drive back to the house so that I can start cleaning and packing. Jo will be by later to inspect the house and they will give me my deposit back in Euros so I can use them on my trip! This is great, and will save me some currency exchange fees.

I review my route for tomorrow. I will have to be in Les Sables d'Olonne by noon, of I will not have time to see the alignments and still make it to Chisseaux by 6:00 (1800) to meet the owners.

I have had a wonderful stay here in the hamlet of Lintivic. The house was great! It is so nice and quite here in the country. I slept well, ate well, and saw so much!

I was glad I had such a variety of things to see. I thought I may only try to see stones, but the Pont de Rohan, Pointe de Penhir, Josselin Chateau were all great sites to visit.

It is kind of sad to think that I probably won't make it back to Brittany again, not with so many other places to visit. I must say that it is truly one of my favorite areas of the world (I've seen so far).

Here is a link to the house owner's website:

Lintivic House Rental